Denim Glossary: Right Hand Twill vs. Left Hand Twill vs. Broken Twill

We regularly receive questions about denim fabrics. What is the difference between right hand twill (RHT) and left hand twill (LHT)? What is broken twill? Which fabric is better and why? Today we will try to answer some of these questions using some examples from denim in our current stock.

Denim is made from tightly woven fabric that usually comes from cotton warp yarn and white cotton filling yarn. The filling yarns are stretched across the width of the fabric and interlaced at a 90 degree angle with warp yarns. This creates an interwoven pattern of diagonal lines called "twill weave". Right hand twill, also know as "z twill", was made famous as Levi's jeans standard fabric and now is the most common twill weave used for denim fabrics. Right hand twill can be recognized by the upward direction of the diagonal twill on the face of the fabric as it runs from lower left toward upper right. Right hand twill is known to have a flatter and smoother surface compared to other twill fabrics. The above photo is taken from a DENIME "New XX" raw selvedge straight leg denim in indigo. More information about the DENIME "New XX" using raw Japanese selvedge right hand twill fabric can be seen here.

Left hand twill, also known as "s twill", is a weave in which the grain line runs from the top-left hand corner of the fabric to the bottom right which is the opposite of right hand twill. It was originally used by Lee denim as its basic denim and now used in many premium denim companies such as 45rpm, Lee Japan, and Kicking Mule Workshop. Left hand twill tends to wear down softer than right hand twill and thus a softer hand feel after washing. Left hand twill will also have different wear patterns as the fabric can emphasize streakiness or vertical fading. The above photo is taken from a Kicking Mule Workshop "left hand twill" Rocker slim tapered selvedge denim in indigo. More information about the KMW Rocker using raw Japanese selvedge left hand twill fabric can be seen here.

Broken twill denim was first used by Wrangler in 1964 as a way to combat the twisting effect characteristic of regular twill denim (at the time considered a "fault" by many). Traditionally, twill is woven either to the right hand or the left hand as we described above which will eventually twist itself after washing due to the tension. This is why you see the outseam of some denim twisted to the front or back of the leg. Broken twill avoids this. Instead of the twill running left or right, broken twill contains no distinct direction and instead alternates right and left - the end effect resembles a random zig-zag pattern as shown above. The above photo is taken from a Naked & Famous "skinny guy" broken twill 13oz selvedge denim in indigo. More information about the Naked & Famous skinny guy using raw Japanese selvedge broken twill fabric can be seen here.

Denim Glossary: Right Hand Twill vs. Left Hand Twill vs. Broken Twill

We regularly receive questions about denim fabrics. What is the difference between right hand twill (RHT) and left hand twill (LHT)? What is broken twill? Which fabric is better and why? Today we will try to answer some of these questions using some examples from denim in our current stock.

Denim is made from tightly woven fabric that usually comes from cotton warp yarn and white cotton filling yarn. The filling yarns are stretched across the width of the fabric and interlaced at a 90 degree angle with warp yarns. This creates an interwoven pattern of diagonal lines called "twill weave". Right hand twill, also know as "z twill", was made famous as Levi's jeans standard fabric and now is the most common twill weave used for denim fabrics. Right hand twill can be recognized by the upward direction of the diagonal twill on the face of the fabric as it runs from lower left toward upper right. Right hand twill is known to have a flatter and smoother surface compared to other twill fabrics. The above photo is taken from a DENIME "New XX" raw selvedge straight leg denim in indigo. More information about the DENIME "New XX" using raw Japanese selvedge right hand twill fabric can be seen here.

Left hand twill, also known as "s twill", is a weave in which the grain line runs from the top-left hand corner of the fabric to the bottom right which is the opposite of right hand twill. It was originally used by Lee denim as its basic denim and now used in many premium denim companies such as 45rpm, Lee Japan, and Kicking Mule Workshop. Left hand twill tends to wear down softer than right hand twill and thus a softer hand feel after washing. Left hand twill will also have different wear patterns as the fabric can emphasize streakiness or vertical fading. The above photo is taken from a Kicking Mule Workshop "left hand twill" Rocker slim tapered selvedge denim in indigo. More information about the KMW Rocker using raw Japanese selvedge left hand twill fabric can be seen here.

Broken twill denim was first used by Wrangler in 1964 as a way to combat the twisting effect characteristic of regular twill denim (at the time considered a "fault" by many). Traditionally, twill is woven either to the right hand or the left hand as we described above which will eventually twist itself after washing due to the tension. This is why you see the outseam of some denim twisted to the front or back of the leg. Broken twill avoids this. Instead of the twill running left or right, broken twill contains no distinct direction and instead alternates right and left - the end effect resembles a random zig-zag pattern as shown above. The above photo is taken from a Naked & Famous "skinny guy" broken twill 13oz selvedge denim in indigo. More information about the Naked & Famous skinny guy using raw Japanese selvedge broken twill fabric can be seen here.

DENIME Type 3 Japanese Raw Denim Jacket

DENIME incorporates modern trend with vintage details, as can be identified in the DENIME type 3 denim jacket. The type 3 jacket uses "old time" details like the Japanese denim fabric made on vintage shuttle looms, the pure indigo dye, and hand-made sewing techniques and combine with the modern cut - slim in the body and chest with high arm holes. 11oz denim. 100% cotton. Made in Japan. S, M, L, XL. $298. For more information, click here.

Back.

Custom engraved chrome buttons with DENIME logos. 2 adjustable straps to tighten along waist line.

Paper patch.

2 chest pockets with button closure.

DENIME Type 3 Japanese Raw Denim Jacket

DENIME incorporates modern trend with vintage details, as can be identified in the DENIME type 3 denim jacket. The type 3 jacket uses "old time" details like the Japanese denim fabric made on vintage shuttle looms, the pure indigo dye, and hand-made sewing techniques and combine with the modern cut - slim in the body and chest with high arm holes. 11oz denim. 100% cotton. Made in Japan. S, M, L, XL. $298. For more information, click here.

Back.

Custom engraved chrome buttons with DENIME logos. 2 adjustable straps to tighten along waist line.

Paper patch.

2 chest pockets with button closure.

DENIME Japanese Raw Selvedge Denim - "New XX" and "New 66"

We are proud to introduce our first shipment of Japanese denim-making pioneer - DENIME. Our first shipment includes 2 different models: "New XX" (photographed above) and "New 66."

DENIME "New XX" is a revised version of the original DENIME "XX," which is inspired by vintage denim produced in 1947 USA. "New XX" is a more modern interpretation of this classic 1947 fit. "New XX" is slim through the thigh, hips, and waist line with a lower rise, yet keeps intact the 1947 original straight leg cut and all of the vintage details. In other words, DENIME "XX" is a more true reproduction of the original 1947 cut, and "New XX" is slimmer.

DENIME "New XX" Japanese raw selvedge denim straight leg. Shrink-to-fit Japanese raw selvedge produced on vintage shuttle looms. Sizing is available from 29-36. Made in Japan. $285. For more information on DENIME "New XX" click here.

Leather patch.

Custom engraved buttons with DENIME logo.

Button fly.

Custom engraved copper rivets with DENIME logo with copper backing. Chainstitched waist band. Heavy duty pocket bags 100% made of cotton.

DENIME signature gold selvedge and contrast gold stitching. Chainstitched hems.

DENIME "New 66" is a revised version of the original DENIME "66," which is inspired by vintage denim produced in 1966 USA. Just like the relationship between DENIME "New XX" and "XX" described above, "New 66" is a more modern interpretation of the classic 1966 fit - it is slim through the thigh, hips, and waist line with a lower rise, yet keeps intact the original 1966 straight leg cut and all of the vintage details. DENIME "66" is a more true reproduction of the original 1966 cut, and the "New 66" is slimmer as described. "New 66" uses the same fabric and many of the same details used on "New XX."

DENIME "New 66" Japanese raw selvedge denim straight leg. Shrink-to-fit Japanese raw selvedge produced on vintage shuttle looms. Sizing is available from 29-36. Made in Japan. $235. For more information on DENIME "New 66" click here.

DENIME Japanese Raw Selvedge Denim - "New XX" and "New 66"

We are proud to introduce our first shipment of Japanese denim-making pioneer - DENIME. Our first shipment includes 2 different models: "New XX" (photographed above) and "New 66."

DENIME "New XX" is a revised version of the original DENIME "XX," which is inspired by vintage denim produced in 1947 USA. "New XX" is a more modern interpretation of this classic 1947 fit. "New XX" is slim through the thigh, hips, and waist line with a lower rise, yet keeps intact the 1947 original straight leg cut and all of the vintage details. In other words, DENIME "XX" is a more true reproduction of the original 1947 cut, and "New XX" is slimmer.

DENIME "New XX" Japanese raw selvedge denim straight leg. Shrink-to-fit Japanese raw selvedge produced on vintage shuttle looms. Sizing is available from 29-36. Made in Japan. $285. For more information on DENIME "New XX" click here.

Leather patch.

Custom engraved buttons with DENIME logo.

Button fly.

Custom engraved copper rivets with DENIME logo with copper backing. Chainstitched waist band. Heavy duty pocket bags 100% made of cotton.

DENIME signature gold selvedge and contrast gold stitching. Chainstitched hems.

DENIME "New 66" is a revised version of the original DENIME "66," which is inspired by vintage denim produced in 1966 USA. Just like the relationship between DENIME "New XX" and "XX" described above, "New 66" is a more modern interpretation of the classic 1966 fit - it is slim through the thigh, hips, and waist line with a lower rise, yet keeps intact the original 1966 straight leg cut and all of the vintage details. DENIME "66" is a more true reproduction of the original 1966 cut, and the "New 66" is slimmer as described. "New 66" uses the same fabric and many of the same details used on "New XX."

DENIME "New 66" Japanese raw selvedge denim straight leg. Shrink-to-fit Japanese raw selvedge produced on vintage shuttle looms. Sizing is available from 29-36. Made in Japan. $235. For more information on DENIME "New 66" click here.

Introducing DENIME - Pioneer of Reproduction Japanese Selvedge Denim

Denime is a pioneer in Japanese denim making. Denime remakes now hard-to-find hidden masterpieces from the 50s to 70s America, with the concept of faithfully conveying the atmosphere of the old time, insisting on superior denim making at the levels of the fabric, fade, sewing, accessories, and wear. While faithfully remaking the old items, Denime incorporates modern trend.

The brand name “Denime” (pronounced du-nee-m) derives from a sturdy fabric called “Serge de Nimes” in the 15th century Nice, France. The word “denim” itself is believed to derive from this “Serge de Nimes.” Denime initially created its classic Denime XX type in 1988 through dismantling the 1950s deadstock denim at the thread level to scrutinize the place of where the cotton is originally made, thread number, color, dye, and woven yarn count. Denime XX type was initially made only 144 pieces. Denime took about six months from the creation of the prototype to begin the production of XX type, after confirming the successful fading. Denime denim shows its true strength after about six months of wear.

Our first shipment of Denime has already shipped from Japan. We will have Denime denims in stock very soon!

Introducing DENIME - Pioneer of Reproduction Japanese Selvedge Denim

Denime is a pioneer in Japanese denim making. Denime remakes now hard-to-find hidden masterpieces from the 50s to 70s America, with the concept of faithfully conveying the atmosphere of the old time, insisting on superior denim making at the levels of the fabric, fade, sewing, accessories, and wear. While faithfully remaking the old items, Denime incorporates modern trend.

The brand name “Denime” (pronounced du-nee-m) derives from a sturdy fabric called “Serge de Nimes” in the 15th century Nice, France. The word “denim” itself is believed to derive from this “Serge de Nimes.” Denime initially created its classic Denime XX type in 1988 through dismantling the 1950s deadstock denim at the thread level to scrutinize the place of where the cotton is originally made, thread number, color, dye, and woven yarn count. Denime XX type was initially made only 144 pieces. Denime took about six months from the creation of the prototype to begin the production of XX type, after confirming the successful fading. Denime denim shows its true strength after about six months of wear.

Our first shipment of Denime has already shipped from Japan. We will have Denime denims in stock very soon!